| When I received this machine, I was thinking of using it for only parts. But I couldn't bring myself to do so. the CPU was hanging loose with all the connectors dangling. It is dusty, rusty, and parts are missing. Plus it wouldn't start up. | See the repair log for electronic restoration | ||
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The metal side rails were rusty
more than I thought they could get. It is possible the previous owner
started to sand them off and left them exposed, which made the rust come
back more widespread. I started with a rust removal acid, pretty harsh stuff, yet it doesn't
do well on heavier rust. This after leaving it on
for an hour or so instead of the recommended 15 minutes.
I followed this with a sand paper Silicon Carbide 220 and going to 330 grit. this is the black sandpaper that is "wet or dry". The metal as shown though smooth still looks like it has rust. These stains are surface only.
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| Close-up of the rust stains that remain even after fine wet sanding. Not the heavy masking, This was masked also to protect from awkward sanding onto the cabinet side art. The taping shown here was done prior to spraying. I basically took no chances of any over spray or free floating clouds of paint. |  |
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I chose black because it looked good on my other Dungeons and dragons machine. Also that making this metal look original is far too difficult as the idea of replacing the side rails. The paint was evenly apply, and flat black, which when dried gave a primered look like an old junk car. Plus it looked uneven the way the light hit it looked darker in some areas than others. Even though the paint was applied evenly. I laid on a coat of Satin clear after allowing the flat back to dry. This gave it a look that was more like it belonged. And not out of place. I didn't want a glossy look and this gave me a fine balance. | ||
| The glare on the cabinet off sets the look but believe me it looks good. you'll have to look later one to see the better of the results. Now below I am going to some up all the things that apparently need to be done: |  |
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| 1- Need to replace a bumper cap | 2- Worn playfield touch ups needed | 3- Letter needs to be re-applied | 4- Piece of a playfield plastic - gone |
5- Playfield Ramp |
This is the replacement piece I made prior to
this restoration log. I tried to reshape the warped original ramp, but
was unsuccessful. So with careful plotting of drilled holes and size
proportions I fabricated this from a piece of Aluminum bought at MEEK's
for 22 cents.
Pop rivets didn't go in at a low enough profile. So I had to flatten them a bit with a flat head cold chisel and a hammer. ---> |
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Note the corner cut, this reflects the original
design as well and was an easy last minute mod for this aluminum
version.
The paint is a match from a wal-mart spray paint brand. The cap did indicate the color in this case. I followed it up with a clear coat to protect the ramp from scraps and scuff from future pinball action. The rivets look a bit awkwardly mashed. But the result is a more free roll up the ramp. |
| 6- Over-spray, (not shown), from where the lunk-head operator tried to spray a portion of the leg black, had fail to mask off the cabinet. A quick fix was a product called "GOOF-OFF professional", found at Wal-mart, a little bit of work removes over spray from the cabinet side. And...without messing up the wallpaper like side cabinet art. | 
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Made a sheet of these by Digitally
photographing the existing playfield numbers and reproducing the
missing/worn numbers as shown above.
The sticky surface didn't stay stuck all that well. And I ended up gluing them all to the playfield. |
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